Preferential Origin : The Strategic Advantage of Major Brands

Adidas, Nike and their peers don’t pick their production sites at random. Behind every factory set up in Asia, or elsewhere, lies a strategy far more complex than simple labor costs. The driver ? Free-trade agreements signed between the European Union and numerous third countries, which allow import duties to be reduced, or even waived.

But beware, gaining access to these tariff advantages isn’t just about producing locally. Companies must comply with specific rules of preferential origin. These rules determine whether a product can be considered “originating” from the partner country, and therefore eligible for duty reductions.

Take the EU–Vietnam agreement, for example. If a pair of shoes is fully assembled in Vietnam in line with the criteria (notably using materials from “any tariff heading”), it qualifies for preferential customs treatment. But if certain components, like soles or uppers classified under heading 6406, are imported and merely attached in Vietnam, the rule is no longer met. The result : full import duties apply.

These technical constraints are central to the concerns of multinational companies, especially at a time when several trade agreements, such as those with India or Indonesia, are being renegotiated. Such changes can alter the rules of origin or the list of eligible products, forcing companies to reassess and adapt their strategies.
To stay competitive, brands sometimes have to relocate parts of their production, switch suppliers, or adjust their logistics routes. A delay in adapting can cost millions of euros annually and lead to supply disruptions, customs delays, and rising costs.
 
These challenges go far beyond mere financial considerations. In a context where logistical fluidity and customer expectations are critical, mastering customs regulations has become a true lever of competitiveness. Local subcontractors are also under pressure to align their processes with the requirements of international trade agreements.
One thing is certain: behind every pair of sneakers sold in Paris lie decisions made in Brussels, Hanoi, or Jakarta, decisions that shape the contours of global trade. In this shifting landscape, anticipation and customs agility are more than ever strategic assets for businesses.